Lyptus Cabinets- Lower Peninsula Cabinets Continued- Back and End Panels

I considered just putting up lyptus plywood. If I had, this would have been done long ago. But no, I'll stick with the plan of quartersawn stiles and rails with plainsawn floating panels. The real challenge here is no exposed connections like brad nails or screws. This can be accomplished with a structural mounting frame, 1/2" angle iron and screws. The only problem is the 88" frieze. There is no way to connect it from the back so I will use inset holes drilled with a forstner bit, screws, and wood plugs for it. I'm considering contrasting plugs of bloodwood for some punch but its mostly out of sight under the countertop overhang so probably not. The 1/2" iron angle iron to support all the panels is the thing that makes all this possible. I really stressed about what to do to make this all work until I remembered woodworker's rule #5- When you don't know how to solve a woodworking problem use some steel. I won't have to glue the mortise and tenons together as all the panels fit together with compression due to the zero tolerance fitting of the panels between the false pillars, angle iron, and the top frieze.


The space was divided up so the resulting panel sizes could be accommodated by whole boards I have in stock. This was done to minimize the glue-up work required and more importantly show off the spectacular nature of a lyptus tree.

Click on a drawing to download a PDF.

Lower Peninsula Lyptus Cabinet


Lower Peninsula Lyptus Cabinet End


The problem, cabinet carcasses with no backside or end panels.

Lyptus Cabinet the problem


Here the 1/2" angle iron, structural mounting frame and fillers have been installed. Missing is the top bridge behind the dishwasher in the middle. There will be a two lite panel there and I can't easily get back there to drill a screw from inside. I don't want to have to pull the dishwasher. In this case I'll screw the panel to the lower and upper bridge first, place this panel in the cabinet and screw the bridges from the inside on either side of the dishwasher. 

Lyptus Cabinet angle iron support installed


False pillars for the cabinet ends. These will be finished and installed first so everything can be built to fit between them. You can see the continuous floating long tenon at the end of the joint. I can't install a tenon on the inside pillar because I didn't think that far ahead.  I got better surface alignment on the untenoned joint. Go figure... OK I'm back, I didn't get a good fit on the tenoned joint because I didn't inspect and test well before the glue was applied or it slipped in the glue up panic or both. When faces miss by even 1/64th you can see it. The ray fleck on the figured side is wonderful.

Lyptus cabinet false corner pillars


First task; complete the toe kick and install the panel attachment grid. You can see the mounting blocks and section of mounting structure with inset angle iron. Due to the cutout required for utilities I installed a toe kick brace of poplar. You can see part of the angle iron support to the left of the brace.

Lyptus cabinet toe kick brace


Ready for the toe kick installation.

Lyptus Cabinet ready for toe kick


Primed and painted 1/4" plywood toe kick material. When choosing a color I googled toe kick and 99.99% of the images were white or light colored. White toe kicks show off shoe marks why would I want that cleaning job. Don't believe the internet.  Due to the slope of the home these toe kicks have some long tapers to fit tight.

1/4" plywood toe kick surface application


Toe kick installed under the sink in the galley.

Lyptus cabinet toe kick under sink area in the galley.


Toe kick at the end of the cabinet in the galley.

Lyptus cabinet toe kick end of cabinet in galley


Toe kick at the cabinet end.

Lyptus cabinet toe kick end of cabinet


Toe kick at the return wall. The proud toe kick under the end cabinet was the result of a cabinet construction error.  As this cabinet is a pull out and so close to the wall a toe kick isn't really needed.

Lyptus Cabinet toe kick at wall


Two 8' lyptus timbers to be quartersawn.

Lyptus to be quartersawn


Cut diagram used to determine net quartersawn boards. There will be almost nothing left over when all is completed.

lyptus timber cut diagram


After ripping and planing.

I always mill some secondary wood to use as test material. Material that bows usually becomes the shorter pieces to minimize the height of the arc.

Lypyus Cabinet quartersawn material


After sanding. I hate snipe so I try to work with long stock to minimize waste.

Lyptus cabinet quartersawn material


Quality control #1.

Quartersawn Lyptus quality control one


Quality control #2. This is the quartersawn face. Isn't this stuff beautiful.

Quartersawn lyptus quality control two


Milling process.

Quartersawn Lyptus during the milling operations


Assembling frames.

Lyptus quartersawn floating panel frame assembly


Frames as two lite.



Fitting the frames to the cabinet.

Lyptus frame fitting


This was the worst; 1/4" out of square. This should not happen but it did. Hiding errors is part of good craftsmanship. I use a near perfect rectangle blank to determine the adjustment needed. I then cut the corresponding stile to fit perfectly with a ripping sled on the table saw.

Fitting frames to zero tolerance


The peninsula cabinet with all the quartersawn lyptus frames fit to the cabinet. I can't forget to install some sound muffling material behind the washer before it's all walled up.

Lyptus cabinet frames fit.


Selecting Wood and Initial Crosscut

These are the four boards I'm considering. To do the eight panels on the back side (what you can see on the above picture) it will take any two boards. If I'm looking for a selection of similar panels I would use the two on the left or the two on the right because these pairs are each from their same tree. The two boards on the left are highly figured showing extensive saturation (90%) of spiral and reverse spiral ray fleck.  These are real special boards and this cabinet would wear them well. What a splash it would be having eight figured panels, from the same tree and nearly consecutive flitch boards filling this group of eight adjacent frames.

But before I get 100% sure on this decision I must consider the next project. The next project is the hutch. So should I save these boards for that then use the two boards on the right that are great in their own right even though the  three open knots need to be dealt with for the peninsula panels. For the knot holes do I cut them out or keep them. I could fill them with black or metallic epoxy. Maybe turquoise (I've see this in Taunton's Fine Wood Working) or use some other color like brass to match the cabinet hardware? Black will always work but I would prefer 1/2" or less diameter holes for black. Two of the holes are bigger than that. So I have decided on a metallic flake. Probably the brass to keep from adding another color to the mix in such a bold way. I've checked out three places and I'm looking a $100 just for the epoxy and dryer. Pricey so I'm avoiding this at this time.


The four wide boards.

Lyptus board selection for eight panels for lower peninsula


Next Project- Kitchen Hutch

Forward look at wood pile to make better board choices.

Lyptus and stone kitchen hutch


Click to see PDF of details

lyptus kitchen hutch details-1


Marking Up.

The drafting electric eraser works real nice with gummy erasers and most woods. For the final markup I use a much better square.

Marking up the crosscuts for the lyptus floating panels


For the hutch planning of the oversized rails: If three quartersawn lyptus boards were glued up like this and then ripped 2-1/2" from the outside I will only loose 5/4" in the middle as sawdust and trash to provide the two 2-1/2" boards needed.

Lyptus quartersawn gluelam plan


For the peninsula panels: The ninth initial crosscut operation just completed. I'm using the jigsaw for this. The front steel plate, at the bottom of the saw just below the 90 degree blade wheel and back of  and below the magnetic switch, comes off later for the arbor adjustments.



All the initial crosscuts are done. Look at the figure of the stack on the left. It is a big wow! These will go up on the outside of the peninsula cabinet. The two stack on the right will go up on the peninsula end. I flushed these with alcohol to see what the end will look like and they are spectacular too. The show real depth and richness. Comparing the two you can see that Weyerhaeuser is using multiple mothers for their clones. I could get everything from light salmon to dark red. I'll be using the sawdust soaked in alcohol for each color and straining out all the particulates to use as some of the alcohol component in the shellac sanding sealer layers. Each of the shellac layers meld together and four layers can be applied as a real thin coat prior to the two or three polyurethanes as the top coat...  I'll be using three color derivatives, bloodwood, salmon lyptus, and van dike brown lyptus alcohols with de-waxed shellac. So I'm using more alcohol than shellac for each flooding of the surface. Just enough shellac to create physical separation with a higher layer. The water base poly layers could be blends of or blended coats of clear and satin long molecule urethanes. I tend for more clear that satin on the figured wood. I'll need the color treatment with the shellac to counter act the blue added when using water base polyu's. With mild soap and water only cleanup the surface should be fine for 50 years.

Lyptus rough crosscuts for panels done


Calibrate Table Saw

The table surface opening in front of the blade opening got out of flat because the bolts in the horizontal piece got loose. So I re-flattened the surface and tightened up all the bolts. With all that banging around its time to measure and correct; blade and miter slot at 90, any blade the runout, and perfect the blade to table 90. Here the top has been deep cleaned and the blade cleaned. The top needs treated with a Empire Top Saver, If I can find some, to reduce the coefficient of friction to reduce slide chatter.  Then calibrate the 90 on the Dubby so I finally can start cutting the panel blanks square and to final dimensions. I measured the saw blade and miter slot, this is out of parallel by +6.5/1000" from front to back. Access to the trunnion bolts in the back is easy. In the front not so much. The table top to skirt bolts are 12mm . The trunnion bolts are 1/2".  I loosened up the back trunnion bolts and re-tightened. I dismantled the front sawdust plate and must do the same on the front bolts. Need a extension arm for the ratchet wrench.  Then I'll loosen up three and start tapping with a rubber hammer and measure the results to 1/1000 of on inch. That's crazy, in a Monte Carlo beat the house kind of way, but it's got to be done. I'll be satisfied within 2/1000 plus or minus. 

A-Line-It_table saw calibration


Arbour Flange and Saw Blade Flat Measurement Setups

Click on this picture to download the full picture then zoom in to the width of tablesaw top. You will see in the center, two high quality Plunger Dial Indicators. Each one is calibrated to 1/1000's of an inch both also have a floating zero function. The arbour's attached flange is 2-1/2" in diameter and I can only read back and front of the flange just above axial top dead center of the axle. The setup tool providing structure for the attachment of a PDI is the A-LIne_IT Deluxe. I got mine from Woodcraft in South Seattle.  The saw blade will be measured radially to the cutting tip of each blade tooth.  I'm using the Forrest 40 tooth, thin kerf of 3/32 with ATB cut carbide tips ground to specifications for each blade. Both operations are done with just one gauge setup. I'll have the blade offset inputs imported to Autocad2000. These will be CDF z, y, & z acad line of text command per radial point matrix of tip of tooth and on the flat as close to the bottom of the tip as I dare for both the each side of the blade body. I'll be able to plot them in 3D in autocad and then fly thro this topology inspect the out of alignment issues. The is a carbide tip broken. It doesn't seem to deteriorate the overall quality. So I'm looking for more errors to justify sending back to the factory for alignment. BTW, In my world alignment would be spelled allignment. Anyway I have Blade # 9928!   Under the blade on the table saw is a phenol sheet. It's a 10" x 10" x 1/4" thick sheet that it is primarily only good for tooth edge measurement not the flat so much as the carbide teeth rest on the test measurement surface it actually four teeth mostly overhanging and the four on either side are overhanging less. That results twelve c-teeth partially overhanging the test surface a each measurement setup on each side so 96 total measurements made. Include face and tooth edge for 192 measurements gross total to complete this test of the blade . I think a few LASER scanning  components would be needed to this in the atommata world for mass production. Me, I'm into the manual measurements with pencil on paper, and then loading these into Excel, and Autocad.  The zero out pole for the PDI is 12 midnight. as marked out on each side of the blade as the registration point. The blade teeth are counted as 0,1,0,1,0,1... Odd and even. Highlights at zero , 90, 180, 270 and 360 as zero's equivalent.


Arbour Flange to Miter Slot and Saw Blade Flatness Measurement for Tablesaw Setups


Plunger Dial Indicator

Courtesy from

This is some great photography.

A lot of woodworkers rarely use these tools but I can't afford to buy much so I need to use them to  know what I got to do to be able to get the best cut. I may have a few issues with the blade and the flange so can I make adjustment where the TBC of the axle and the blade to average errors as a final place to test for accuracy?

Plunger Dial Indicator, General 1/1000 of an inch. THe face plate turns for allignmet for the Zero Out setting.


DPI Setup for Arbour Flange, Front and Back, at just above top dead center.  The TDC is measured as constant if the 0, 90, 270 agree. So the arbuor is spun slowly reading this circumference of  the TDC test point to look for undulation or warble.  The second test is for the blade flatness. Blades get out of flat when overheated and or have had long use. I have got a lot of wood cut with this blade and it's time to take a close look. My rips have been burning although it is an under powered blade and the rip fence setup for big, thick, hard, sappy, and long cuts. This setup  is measured from the right of the blade to the rip fence for alignment so does not use the miter slot as a registration point. Good alignment for cross cutting and short ripping to square the panels I'm getting ready to cut is done on the Dubby so the miter slot is the registration to calibrate now. It will help reduce wear on the blade too.  A lot of pitch needed to be scrubbed off the blade and carbide tips. The expansion cuts in the blades needed a cleaning with a diluent and some tooth floss to clear the four question mark shapes out.

DPI setup for table saw aurbor and allignment with miter gauge.


DPI measurement setup for saw blade. Saw blade flatness measurement setup with a DPI and magnetic base for the arm. The phenol sheet surface is clamped to the metal table top at two points and a magnetic wedge is pushed in for the wedge into place limiter. The indices of the readings are ready on the note pad. Columns for Flat and Tip need to be taken for both sides. I will use a finer DPI measuring tip on the DPI for the non-rolling blade measurements. The trick to all of this is to not  bump the alignment or zero-out adjustments out of proper default or you have to start all over.  So multiple over lapping readings need to be taken for verifications. Maybe 00, 90, 180, & 270 will be enough for the second go around to check for calibration registration accuracy. So that kicks the total to a 198 measurement minimum. Do-check-do, tip-by-tip.  By thoroughly evaluating the blade I can attach it to the arbour with confidence and then  measure the miter slot to saw tip edge alignment with a greater diameter of separation for greater accuracy.  For rips I have been aligning the rip fence off the back of the blade tips. To overcome any alignment issues. If I have any z axis issues causing warble the only solution I can see it to shim the trunnion bolt locations between the arbour rig and the bottom of the saw top with a thin 1/1000 washer donated from a feeler gauge for the spark plugs. That would be a real pain. If the arbour rig is out of square maybe it gets remove and re-cubed the re-installed. I hope it doesn't get that crazy.

Saw blade flatness measerement setup with a DPI and magnetic  base for the arm.


Trunnion Bolt Access Continued...

after due diligence & tool purchase.

Looking down to see back up through mirror into the most tightly confined space of any trunnion bolt.

The right front tight corner trunnion blot head access made easy with a lamp, mirror, and 18 extension arm for  a socket ratchet.

The right front tight corner trunnion blot head access made easy with a lamp, mirror, and 18 extension arm for  a socket ratchet.


Trunnion bolt head connected to 18" socket set seen through mirror with flashlight while sitting on bucket in front of Mao Shan Table Saw with positive torque pressure . This is an easy working setup that doesn't force me to pull the sawdust floor out.  Because poking my oval head, into the square opening, trying to see up through compound glass lenses, and manipulate a socket set, was very difficult with the sawdust floor I installed. While it's technically a cabinet saw this aspect was not resolved in the design. So any dust control cabinet must be removable. It is to some degree. To get to access this  space four bolts, nuts, and star washers need to be removed to pull off the steel sheet panel. It takes me about four or five seconds to take the ratchet set and be in a positive torque force mode each time I do it. But sitting comfortably on my old Duluth Trading Bucket Top Seat Pad while doing it is worth it. I think you can get the bucket top seats now through ACE, Amazon, Home Depot...I had to put out cash for the Socket Extension Arm. I had to buy a set of four for under $20 at Harbor Freight to get this. I don't think the 18" ext. arm will ever be used for anything but this.

Trunnion bolt head connected to 18" socket set seen through mirror with flashlight while sitting on bucket in front of Mao Shan Table Saw.


\';-} the squiggly smiling winker topped with a balmoral hat