SHED DOOR
Late 2006
The floor in the old shed was rotting out because there was no door to keep the rain out. My first job will be to make a door, then rebuild the floor. I went to Dunn Lumber and found some 4/4 x 68" Douglas-fir boards for the frame and beaded tongue and groove boards on sale for the face. The opening of the shed is not true or square. I decided to make a hatch type door. I'll make a face frame two boards thick to bring the frame flush with the siding. I used pocket hole screws and Titebond II glue to assemble the frame. I laid out the screws so that I could get the most screws at each joint. You know, when in doubt make it stout. After I painted up the frame, I decided to add additional corner bracing allowing more screws and glue at the joints. Again, when in doubt make it stout. The tongue and groove wainscoting boards were applied with single nails in the center of the boards top, middle, and bottom. Like in barn construction due to the expansion and contraction of the siding outside, the boards are nailed only in the center to keep them from splitting. The three natural boards were finished with exterior polyurethane. They cover the nails. A bit of molding was placed above the door. The floor around the door was cutout and replaced. Later a second layer of painted 3/4" plywood was placed over the floor and nailed 6" OC. I used a screen door spring with a lag bolt to keep the door closed. The lag bolt fits in a natural knot. It can be removed when the door needs to be kept open. Double large eyelets are used in opposition as a hasp for the padlock.