Electric Installation and Rebuild
I must have the kitchen rewired as I am adding the dishwasher and disposal. This house was built in 1954. While it was wired with copper, no ground conductor was required at that time. The house is under-served from the outside and within. The owner before me replaced the breaker panel by pulling out the old 100 amp and replacing it with a 200 amp but the meter base outside is still the old 100 amp. Obviously this was done without a permit. The meter must be replaced with a 200 amp meter base now to meet code.
In 2010 when the roof was rebuilt and the siding on the north and west side was replaced, I had an electrician out to rebuild the strike and place a new upsized meter. I ordered a 200 amp service from the PUD. I don't think they actually deliver it. They came out and reconnected the the triplex. Looking to save money, I have been studying specifications to ensure that the design is correct and I'll know exactly what has to be done to pass inspection. In the state of Washington a homeowner is allowed to do their own electric work per RCW 19.28. See 19.28.261. A permit is always required.
(1) Nothing in RCW 19.28.161 through 19.28.271 shall be construed to require that a person obtain a license or a certified
electrician in order to do electrical work at his or her residence or farm or place of business or on other property owned by
him or her unless the electrical work is on the construction of a new building intended for rent, sale, or lease.
2- 20 amp: Small Appliance Kitchen Outlets
1-20 amp: Dishwasher
1-15 amp: Garbage Disposal
1-15 amp: Lights. Include Under-cabinet Lights
1-60 amp: Stove
2-20 amp: One for Each Bathroom
Add Junction Box for Future Air Exhaust in Main Bathroom
1-20 amp: Office
1- outlet: Add Outlet off Old Bathroom Circuit in Hallway
Upgrade Electric Meter Base and Masthead.
Replace all non-grounded outlets in house, crawl space, and outside with GFCI outlets.
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422.31 Disconnection of Permanently Connected Appliances.
(A) Rated at Not over 300 Volt-Amperes or 1/8 Horsepower. For permanently
connected appliances rated at not over 300 volt-amperes or 1/8 hp, the
branch-circuit overcurrent device shall be permitted to serve as the
disconnecting means.
(B) Appliances Rated over 300 Volt-Amperes or 1/8 Horsepower. For permanently
connected appliances rated over 300 volt-amperes or 1/8 hp, the branch-circuit
switch or circuit breaker shall be permitted to serve as the disconnecting means
where the switch or circuit breaker is within sight from the appliance or is
capable of being locked in the open position. The provision for locking or
adding a lock to the disconnecting means shall be installed on or at the switch
or circuit breaker used as the disconnecting means and shall remain in place
with or without the lock installed.
Section 422.31(B) requires a special locking device for service and maintenance
personnel. A device that is attached to the circuit breaker handle by a set
screw is not an acceptable means to serve as a safe method of locking the device
in the off position. The device must have provisions for placement of a lock on
it to secure the device in the off position. The lock-out device must be part of
the disconnect assembly and must remain in place after the padlock is removed,
whether it is a fused disconnect switch, a single circuit breaker, or a circuit
breaker in a panelboard. See 422.33(B) for electric ranges.
FPN: For appliances employing unit switches, see 422.34.
422.32 Disconnecting Means for Motor-Driven Appliance.
If a switch or circuit breaker serves as the disconnecting means for a
permanently connected motor-driven appliance of more than 1/8 hp, it shall be
located within sight from the motor controller and shall comply with Part IX of
Article 430.
Exception: If a motor-driven appliance of more than 1/8 hp is provided with a
unit switch that complies with 422.34(A), (B), (C), or (D), the switch or
circuit breaker serving as the other disconnecting means shall be permitted to
be out of sight from the motor controller.
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2005 NEC - 422.16 (B) (4) - Range Hoods
This article was added to the 2005 Code to allow range hoods to be cord-and-plug
connected under specific prerequisite conditions. The Code requires that if a
receptacle is installed for a range hood, this receptacle must be supplied by an
individual branch circuit. In the past, a receptacle supplying a lighting
circuit could be used for a range hood. The reason for the change is because
vent hoods are sometimes removed making room for a microwave oven. Microwaves
require individual branch circuits, thus the change. If the range hood is
directly connected without a cord, the individual branch circuit is not
required.
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For the 2005 Code, a new derating requirement was added to prevent overheating of Type NM (romex) conductors where passing though draft and firestopping material. The Code reads where more than two NM cables containing two or more current-carrying conductors are bundled together and pass through wood framing that is to be fire or draft-stopped using thermal insulation or sealing foam, the allowable ampacity of each conductor shall be derated. Electricians are encouraged to install no more than two cables through each hole where foam sealant is used.
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Original Plan Drawings.
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